LOBSTER FRIES at HOLIDAY HOUSE’S THE PANTRY in Palm Springs, California
A lobster lover’s typical lament lies in the commonly botched dishes found in restaurants worldwide in which lobster is supposed to be the star of the show yet ends up being the bastard child of cheapness and invisibility. Oftentimes I will (salivating for that plump, yummy meat) order a lobster roll only to be delivered a buttery bun with mayo-saturated meat in meager proportion to the bread. Or, I will order a lobster ragu pasta and find myself digging beneath the effusive vodka cream sauce trying to find the meat. I have come to eschew lobster dishes altogether.
This was entirely not the case, though, when earlier this week a friend convinced me to put away my prejudice and share a pile of lobster fries at the new, chic resort Holiday House in Palm Springs. What arrived from The Pantry’s kitchen was a basket of perfect fries, crisp on the outside and creamily, puffy on the inside piled with lobster meat only tenderly infused with truffle oil, not enough to overpower the dish. The lobster was a generous pile, with 4 claws (!) in a dish meant to be shared by two. Nary a potato was left at the end of our meal, accentuated by a scrumptious burger and a cocktail made from rose wine, basil and gin.
P.S. You can even play with LEGOs at the bar.